I love La Paz. Even though we have a sort of travel rule about never visiting the same place twice, I’ve been there 3 times now. It’s not that La Paz is some magical place that will dazzle your senses… it’s real, it’s attainable and it’s fun. Like dating the girl next door instead of searching endlessly for some illusive kind of perfection.

There’s nothing quite like sunshine, deep blue waters, friendly people, good food and time to explore. And the La Paz has it all.

Located on the Sea of Cortez in Baja California Sur, Mexico, with a population of about 250,000 people, La Paz is the university and government capital of Baja Sur. The area offers a desert climate and rich ocean environment with average wintertime temperatures in mid / high 20s. On our recent drip during the first two weeks of March we were blessed with temperatures into the mid 30s.

The city has invested into creating a 6 miles boardwalk along the bay call the  Malecon – this is where you find tourist shops, restaurants, bars, tour guides, benches, coffee shops and more. Friday and Saturday evenings are especially busy with local family’s coming down to enjoy a stroll by the sea while the kids enjoy the play grounds and everyone enjoys the gelato. If you have chance try the Tiramisu flavor, it’s divine!

Getting there…

It’s a hop skip and a jump… we grabbed a cheap flight to San Jose del Cabo, hopped a bus from the airport and a few hours later we were in a taxi heading to our apartment.

There are a couple options when it comes to getting from the airport to La Paz. You can rent a car, if you are brave. However, given the horror stories online I’d say it’s best to do your research and go with a very reputable company…

Or you can take the Aguila Bus from Cabo. One year, we took a taxi to the Walmart in Cabo where we stocked up on snacks, marveled at the price of tequila, then walked across the street to the Aquila Bus station to wait for our bus to Todos Santos. This ‘greyhound’ bus was really a pleasant surprise. It was clean, comfortable, air-conditioned, had WiFi and was CHEAP.

This year we skipped all that and booked the Eco Baja Tours bus from the airport right to the Malecon. It’s a bit more expensive, but boy was it easy. Definitely book ahead, as it usually fills up in advance (you don’t want to be left at the airport hoping for a seat on the next bus. The drivers are often bilingual, and always helpful. The trip is beautiful, winding through the mountains and along the coast.

We found that for the price a rental car we could take as many taxi’s and buses as we wanted. Stress free.

Where to stay…

I’ll be brief. There are plenty of hotels, B&Bs, hostels and all inclusive options in La Paz.

The first year we stayed at Casa Tuscany, just off the Malecon. This gem of a B&B offers a convenient location, knowledgeable hostess, breakfast with other guests and clean comfortable rooms.

This year, we rented a cute little casa from airbnb. It was perfect. It was a 30 minute walk from the center of the Malecon, it offered us all the comforts of home in a quiet, private atmosphere. No matter what your travel style or budget you are sure to find just the right accommodations.

Necessities…

If you are self catering you are going to want some groceries. Enter Supermercado Aramburo. Just two block up from the Malecon it has all the necessities and is known for great beef. Here is a list of places to buy groceries. Let me tell you our daily breakfast of eggs, bacon, potatoes, beans and avocado served with coffee and smoothies on the patio was a real highlight.

My guy cannot, will not, live without a data connection. Even though our casa had WiFi, priority number one was getting him a SIM card. There are Telcel stores pretty much everywhere. There is one on 16 de Septiembre street, about 3 blocks up from the Malecon. They happily sold us a SIM card, sent us 2 stores up to the buy time, then back we went and the lovely lady activated our data plan for us. Two weeks of data cost… well not much and a fraction of the price of a travel plan through our cell phone company here. All in, I think we paid $25 for 1.5GB on a two week plan, including the SIM). A huge bonus was not having to worry about roaming charges because our Canadian SIM wasn’t even in the phone! Tip: if your Spanish is as bad as ours, prepare your phrases in writing before you go.

Sunscreen… if you are pale and Canadian and heading to Mexico in the winter you are gonna need some. Walmart was the only place we found that actually sold sunscreen. They also carry groceries and all the expected Walmart type items, oh and booze… cheap cheap booze. It’s out of the way, so plan ahead and only go once.

Where to eat…

I think part of why I love travel so much is because of all the new food experiences I get to have.

We ate at quite a few places… here are my top 3.

Rancho Viejo

There are two locations. One right on the Malecon in the “touristy” area and the original location at the far south end of the Malecon, just up from the Marina. The original spot is definitely worth the walk. Open 24 hours they serve up deliciousness any time you feel the need. Our favorite dishes were the Tacos Pescado (Fish) and Tacos Asada (beef). Always good, very affordable and served with chips, guac, salsa, and a topping platter extraordinaire. They have an extensive menu so go often and remember variety is the spice of life!

Tio Bencho

This place was a real treat. We only discovered it on our second to last day in La Paz. This place makes me want to go back to La Paz just to eat there again. Amazing atmosphere, friendly service and traditional Mexican dishes. The Oaxaca tamales were amazing! They also make a great Auga Jamaica – chilled sweet hibiscus tea which is the perfect refresher on hot days.

Mariscos El Molinito

A bit of a walk from the central Malecon, El Molinito is located down the north end of the strip almost as far as Pinas y Cocas (a family spot with a large playground and fresh cut fruit). They serve great seafood at fraction of the price that the Bismark charges (that’s the seafood place on the Malecon where all the cruise ship folks seem to eat). El Molinito is clean, quick and laid back. The ceviche was delicious. Always a few people there no matter the time of day and busy on the weekends.

What to do…

Again, I’ll be brief… Since half the fun of travel is the exploration. That being said, a few things I wouldn’t miss are:

Espiritu Y Baja 

We took an amazingly fun day trip with this company to Espiritu Santo Island where we snorkeled with the sea lions! It was a blast. On the leisurely boat trip we say blue whales, dolphins, a frigate bird colony and beautiful geographical features of the area.

We snorkeled for about an hour and seeing the sea lion pups playing in the water was a real treat especially so close up! The tropical fish and underwater features around the island were stunning. After snorkeling we hopped back in the boat and headed for a secluded beach, on the way there some Manta Rays put on a delightful display! A lunch of ceviche and sandwiches was served before we headed back to La Paz. On the return journey the guides were very excited to show us some grey whales. It was a great day, with a professional company and something I would highly recommend!

Snorkling at Playa Balandra

Balandra is known for its warm shallow waters and family friendly fun. We went for the kayaks and the snorkeling. Renting a kayak for the day gives you and easy way to escape the crowds and head to the far side of the bay. Near the rocky outcroppings there you will find a few places to pull up your kayak, bust out your snorkel and go for a swim among the tropical fish and small corals. Be respectful of the beautiful fragile ecosystem – don’t touch! If you are wading be sure to do the stingray shuffle as they do like to hide just under the sand and will sting if you step on them.

Beach days at Playa Tecolote

If you are looking to kick back on a beach chair, sip ice cold drips, have some lunch and take in the view this is the place. Busy on the weekends, it’s nice to find some quiet time there mid week. A perfect swimming beach with soft sand that stretches along the shore you’re sure to find the perfect spot to kick back and relax.

Well, that’s a wrap.

I hope you enjoy your travels.